Monday, February 21, 2011

Cerro Punta / Hot Springs

The highlands of Cerro Punta are incredible. In the pic below, the camera is actually held at horizontal, which gives a clear indication we're in the shadow of Volcán Baru. This is Panama´s breadbasket, and the area that hires many ngäby people. This whole area is worked by only two people. Wife and I are now making trips up to join the couple, Edil and Exilena.
Another view... Little houses dot the hills, making this territory fascinating - and heart-stopping.

One of the well maintained bridges, haha.
Our friend Antonio speaking to a Ngäby family.

In this area, our group hiked over to the hotsprings, which can be found in the highlands 8 kms off the main road. They were waiting their turn to cross the 'bridge'.



I didn't even try this one. Better to just take your shoes off, roll up your pants and cross.
The group at the end of the hike listened carefully, and once again we emphasized proper hygiene, as four children in this area recently died. They usually blame demons, but the culprit ends up almost always being either contaminated water or malnourishment.

Our society has been working with several ngäbere issues when it comes to writing. Because there never was a ngäby written language, the Panamanian government provided one for future use in their schools. However, not all organizations follow their guidelines (we do). On top of this, the lack of written language has caused variations in Ngäbere which make things even more difficult.
We have literature in the Ngäbere language which we use, and fortunately we have a partial ngäbere bible which was helped us learn the language. Because the bible doesn't follow the Panamanian government´s guideline on the Ngäby written language, some ngäbere have trouble reading it. However, the writing is consistent and with a simple explanation they quickly adapt.
'Pajaro de paraiso.'
This little meter long iguana was crossing the road and we couldn't resist snapping a shot.

Thursday, February 3, 2011

Information means life...

Five hours away from where we live, a tropical paradise with crystal clear waters await. You can literally peer down a few meters to see manta rays glide by.
On these beaches, turtles lay their eggs, and coral and starfish abound. Not too far from here, a coral reef is active with marine life. Huge conches litter the beach in a kaleidoscope of color.
On our way to visit a Ngäby community up in the hills, you can see many dwellings like this one here. Though this is at sea level, little communities exist pretty much everywhere, either fishing, caring for cattle or cultivating on higher altitudes.

Our goal was to reach a community straddling the Costa Rica border, a few hours hike inwards. Fortunately, the sky was clear.

Pictures are hazed because of the intense sunlight here in the tropics.

This group of kids appear healthy, something not quite common in these communities. They all have superstitions and usually blame demons for the constant cholera coming from polluted waters.
Infant deaths are common. We spend considerable time educating the natives on how to purify their water. Fortunately, they respect white people as knowledgeable and accept our info, at least for a few days.
Those that accept our bible studies quickly change though, taking more in depth measures to become a 'clean people' to Jehovah God. It's not long before the words of Isaiah are spiritually and physically applied:
"Wash yourselves; make yourselves clean... Learn to do good; search for justice; set right the oppressor; render judgment for the fatherless boy; plead the cause of the widow." Isaiah 1:16,17

One of thousands of perfect heliconias in these parts. These gorgeous plants can only reproduce through hummingbird fertilization.
Bird nests cover this tree. Why this tree? Who knows...
This family resides deep in the interior and can only be reached after a significant climb. The thinner person in the picture has just been invited to Gilead, with his wife Amber. They have been climbing these hills for 6 years now and speak Ngäbere very well.
A town!!! Yay!
The suburbs, haha. The river at the bottom is filthy dirty. Its where most wash and where some get their water. The baby in this little house was crying in pain and running a fever, likely because of Cholera. Educating them is a difficult process, as many lean back towards their 'Mamatata' (Mother breast) religion - one loosely based on christian beliefs but mixed in with spiritism and the worship of their mow dead prophetess. She has recently died.

Although the religion is relatively new, having been formed in the mid 60s, many Ngäberes have accepted the faith, primarily because Mamatata taught that all ngäbys go to heaven, but not the white men, who are an inferior class.
Those sewing machines are hand cranked.
My friend Mario has a week heart. He nearly gave me a heart attack as he grabbed his chest.




Mud, mud everywhere...Tons of red clay, pure enough to make pottery here.



9 hours later, we're returning back to our vehicle. Although tired, we hope that the interested people we found will take hold of the message while they wait for our return.